October 2024

JEWELRY INSURANCE ISSUES (formerly IM News), provides monthly insight and information for jewelry insurance agents, underwriters and claims adjusters.

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Jewelry Insurance Issues

Table of Contents

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2024

Gems aren't only in jewelry - January

A new switcheroo - February

Diamond deflation - March

The diamond engagement ring - April

A Case in Point - May

Gems & the sun - June

Faking the brands - July & August

BIG diamonds - September

What is a CPO Rolex? - October

2023

Carat Weight & Cut are a team - January

Beautiful gems — but not always in jewelry - February

Rapaport's New Year Message - March

New technology, new standards for diamond cut - April

Wedding season has a new star - May

Lab-Grown Colored Gems - June

Price, value, valuation. . .and limit of liability - July

Lab-Grown Diamonds – now and into the future - August

Fake diamond certificates – recurring scams and a strange new one - September

Mined or lab-made? - October

Fraud catcher: the sales receipt - November

2022

What's up with diamonds? Prices! - January

Ferreting out the Fakes - February

Vodka, caviar . . . and diamonds? - March

Conflict of Interest - April

Under the "covers" - May

Agents: Do you know who you're doing business with? - June

Brand-name fakes: a tale of jewelry, duplicity, and international intrigue - July

What is insurable jewelry? - August

Vintage Rolexes - September

Lab-Made Diamonds in the Fast Lane - October

Exploring the 4 Cs: Color - more complex than you may think - November

Clarity – for all transparent gems - December

2021

High-end jewelry & its docs - January

Where is gold going? - February

Hot off the press: Imposter diamonds & forged inscriptions - March

Jewelry insurers' ethics - April

Can you spot a forgery? - May

Green Diamonds - June

Is the appraisal good enough? And is it enough? - July

Men's Jewelry—Passing fad or wave of the future? - August

Jewelry appraisals — watches vs. jewels - September

Replacements & CAD/CAM - October

Lab-Grown Diamonds are coming your way - November

How important is the picture? Very! - December

2020

2020 Fraud Alert! Fake Lab Reports - January

Is it worth its weight in gold? - February

Grading lab-made diamonds - March

Safety deposit boxes - April

Evaluating a jewelry appraisal - May

Verifying the Lab Report - June

When you need a jewelry appraisal, what do you do? - July

Calling a diamond a diamond - August

Diamond clarity meets Artificial Intelligence - September

Mined or Lab-made: Who knows? - October

Covid 19 & jewelry insurance - November

Gem Enhancement's slippery slope - December

2019

Gem Certificates again at issue - January

Yogo sapphires – What's in a name? - February

Lab-made diamonds: pricing, grading, valuation - March

What is an "eco-friendly" diamond? - April

GIA report: What's left out - May

A tale from the Caribbean - June

Lab-Grown diamonds are taking off - July

Brand impersonators & counterfeit jewelry - August

Lab reports for colored gems - September

FTC Guidelines for jewelry - October

Selling Salvage Jewelry - November

What's in a name—a brand name, that is? - December

2018

What's a Certified Appraiser? - January

Best Appraiser Credentials - February

Are the diamonds you're insuring real? - March

Handwritten Appraisals - April

Internet Tips for Jewelry Insurers - May

De Beers will sell lab-grown diamonds - June

Do genuine gemstones break? - July

Luxury Watches - August

Who owns the ring? - September

Insuring Bling - October

The Price of a Replacement - November

Love Is In The Air - December

2017

Moral Hazard, Documents and the Bottom Line - January

Ruby and Jade - February

How to mail a diamond - March

Jewelry Insurance Appraisal Standards: JISO - April

Describing a gem's color - May

Why not just put jewelry on the Homeowner policy? - June

GIA Diamond Reports - July

Not just a pretty face - August

Moral hazards on the rise - September

Hurricanes, fires, floods—and jewelry insurance - October

Inherent vice / wear-and-tear losses are rising - November

FRAUD UPDATE – lack of disclosure, false inscriptions & doctored docs - December

2016

Inflated appraisals—alive & well! Shady lab reports—alive & well! MORAL HAZARD—ALIVE & WELL! - January

Clarity Enhancements v. Inherent Vice - February

How green is my emerald? - March

Cruise Jewelry - What's the problem? - April

Crown of Light ® - how special is it? - May

Diamonds at Auction — Big gems, big prices, and the trickle-down effect - June

Are you sure her wedding jewelry is covered? - July

What Affects Jewelry Valuation? - August

What to look for – on the jewelry appraisal, on the cert, and on other documents - September

Growing Bigger & Bigger Diamonds - October

Scam season is always NOW - November

Ocean Diamonds - December

2015

Pair & Set Jewelry Claims and the Accidental Tourist - January

Is that brand-name diamond a cut above the others? - February

Vacation Jewelry – Insurer beware! - March

Apple's Smartwatch – The risk of a wrist computer - April

Why you should read that appraisal - May

Smoking Gun! - June

Color-Grading Diamond: the Master Stones - July

Padparadscha—a special term for a special stone - August

Jewelry Appraisal Fees - September

Insuring a Rolex - steps to take, things to consider - October

Diamond camouflage and how to see through it - November

GIA Hacked! - December

2014

Who Grades? - January

Sales, discounts, price reductions, bargains, specials, mark-downs . . . . and valuation - February

Credential Conundrum - March

Frankenwatches - April

Fakes, fakes, and more fakes - May

Marketing Confusion — What is this gem anyway? - June

12 Reasons Not to Insure a Rolex! - July

Why NOT to insure a Rolex: Reasons 5-7 - August

Why NOT to insure a Rolex: Reasons 8-10 - September

Why NOT to insure a Rolex: Reasons 11-12 - October

The Doublet Masquerade - November

Is the gem suitable for the jewelry? Is this a good insurance risk? - December

2013

Wedding Rings on HO? NO! - January

Silver: the new gold - February

Point Protection - March

Tiffany v. Costco - April

What counts in valuing a diamond? - May

Appraising Jewelry - What's a credential worth? - June

A Cutting Question concerning vintage diamonds - July

Synthesized Diamonds - Scam update - August

Pretty in Pink - Kunzite on parade... - September

Preventing jewelry losses - October

Scratch a diamond and you'll find . . .??? - November

Synthetics in the Mix - December

2012

Advanced Gem Lab - A deeper look at colored gems - January

Whose Diamond? - February

Appraisal Inflation - It Keeps On Keeping On - March

Big Emerald - April

Changing colors and making gems: Are we seeing "beautiful lies"? - May

Diamonds - Out of Africa. . .or out of a lab? - June

Appraiser's Dream Contest - July

GIA & the Magic of Certificates - August

Pricey when it's hot: What happens when it's not? - September

Fooling With Gold - October

Tanzanite – December's stone - November

Branding Diamonds - What do those names mean? - December

2011

Unappraisable Jewelry - January

Replicas - Are they the real thing? - February

Composite Rubies- From bad to worse - March

Jewelry Hallmark - A Well-Kept Secret - April

Non-Disclosure: Following a Trail of Deception - May

Preserving the Diamond Dream - June

Spinel in the Spotlight - July

Jewelry 24/7 - Electronic Shopping - August

Diamond Bubble? - September

Disclosure: HPHT - October

"Hearts & Arrows" Diamonds - November

How a Gem Lab Looks at Diamonds - December

2010

Emeralds - And What They Include - January

Pink Diamonds: From Astronomical to Affordable - February

Palladium-the Other Precious White Metal - March

Bridal Jewelry - April

The Corundum Spectrum - May

How Photos Cut Fraud - and help the insured - June

The Price of Fad - July

Old Cut, New Cut-It's All about Diamonds - August

EightStar Diamonds-Beyond Ideal - September

The Hazard of Fakes - October

Jewelry with a Story - November

Counterfeit Watches - December

2009

Blue Diamond-cool, rare and expensive-sometimes - January

Turning Jewelry into Cash—
Strategy in a Bad Economy
- February

Enhancing the Stone - March

Being Certain about the Cert - April

Every Picture Tells a Story - May

Color-Grading Diamonds - June

The Newest Diamond Substitute - July

What Happens to Stolen Jewelry - August

Jewelry As an Investment - September

Black Diamond: Paradox of a Gem - October

Protect Your Homeowners Market—Keep Jewelry OFF HO Policies! - November

What’s So Great about JISO Appraisal Forms & Standards? - December

2008

Garnet - and Its Many Incarnations - January

Organic Gems - February

Do Your Jewelry Insurance Settlements Make You Look Bad? - March

Don't Be Duped by Fake JISO Appraisal - April

Diamonds in the Rough - May

The Cultured Club - June

Sapphire-Gem Superstar - July

It's a Certified Diamond! - But who's saying so? - August

FTC Decides: Culture Is In! - September

Paraiba Tourmaline – What's in a Name? - October

How Fancy is Brown? - November

CZ – The Great Pretender - December

2007

Moissanite's New Spin - January

Online Jewelry - Buying and Insuring - February

Blood Diamonds - March

Damaged Jewelry, Don't Assume! - April

Chocolate Pearls - May

Appraisal Puff-Up vs Useful Appraisal - June

It's Art, but is it Jewelry?- July

Diamonds Wear Coats of Many Colors - August

Danger! eBay Jewelry "Bargains" - September

TV Shopping for Jewelry - October

Enhanced Emerald: clever coverup - November

How do you like your rubies -
leaded or unleaded?
- December

2006

The New Platinum: A Story of Alloys - January

Ruby Ruse - February

How Big are Diamonds Anyway? - March

GIA Diamond Scandal
Has Silver Lining for Insurers
- April

Watch Out for Big-Box Retailers Insurance Appraisals - May

Mixing It Up: Natural and Synthetic Diamonds Together - June

Tanzanite - Warning: Fragile - July

Red Diamonds - August

Inflated Valuations & Questionable Certificates - September

Emeralds - October

Where Do Real Diamonds Come From? - November

Counterfeit Watches - The Mushroom War - December

2005

The Lure of Colored Diamonds - January

Synthetic Colored Diamonds - February

Watches: What to Watch for - March

When is a Pear not a Pair? - April

The Truth About Topaz - May

White Gold: How White is White? - June

One of a Kind - or Not - July

Jewelry in Disguise - August

Valued Contract for Jewelry? Proceed with Caution! - September

Antiques, Replicas and All Their Cousins - October

Grading the Color of Colored Diamonds - November

New GIA Cut Grade for Diamonds - December

2004

Synthetic Diamonds - and Insuring Tips - January

Bogus Appraisals and Fraud - February

A Picture is Worth Thousands of Dollars - March

Don't be Duped by Fracture Filling - April

Gem Scams Point to Need for Change - May

What is a Good Appraisal - June

4Cs of Color Gemstones - July

Gem Laser Drilling: The Next Generation - August

Why Update an Appraisal? - September

When to Recommend an Appraisal Update or a Second Appraisal - October

Secrets of Sapphire - November

Will the Real Ruby Please Stand Up - December

2003

Mysterious Orient:
A Tale of Loss
- January

Bogus Diamond Certificates and Appraisals - February

Can Valuations be Trusted? - March

Spotting a Bogus Appraisal or Certificate - April

Counterfeit Diamond Certificates - May

Case of the Mysterious "Rare" Sapphires - June

Politically Correct Diamonds - July

Name Brand Diamonds- September

Princess Cut: Black Sheep of Diamonds - October

Reincarnate as a Diamond - November

Synthetic Diamonds - December

2002

Irradiated Mail/Irradiated Gems - January

Fake Diamonds (Moissonite) - February

GIA Diamond Report - March

AGS and Other Diamond Certificates - April

Colored Stone Certificates - May

Damaged Jewelry: Don't Pay for Nature's Mistakes - June

The Case of the "Self-Healing" Emerald - July

Mysterious Disappearance: Case of the Missing Opals - August

The Discount Mirage - September

What Can You Learn from Salvage? - October

Gaining from Partial Loss - November

Year in Review - December

2001

Colored Diamonds - January

Good as Gold - February

Disclose Gem Treatments - March

FTC Jewelry Guidelines - April

Myths Part I: Each Piece is Unique - May

Myths Part II: Myths, Lies, & Half-Truths - June

New Trend: Old Cut Stones - October

The Appraisal Process - November

Year in Review - December

2000

Deceptive Pricing - January

Gems - Natural or Manmade - February

Jeweler/Appraisal Credentials - March

Fracture Filling - April

Salvage Jewelery - May

Gem Treatments - June

Don't Ask/Don't Tell - A Buying Nightmare - July

Laser Drilling of Diamonds - August

Jeweler Ethics or the Lack Thereof - September

Gem Scam - October

The Truth about Clarity Grading - November

Year in Review - December

 

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What is a CPO Rolex?

It's a Certified Pre-Owned Rolex, a secondhand watch that has been certified by Rolex to be authentic in all its parts.

Rolex created this program so the company could profit from the expanding market for secondhand luxury watches, but the certification of pre-owned watches could also be useful to insurers as well as consumers.

A new Rolex purchased from an authorized Rolex dealer comes with specific descriptions of each part and it carries the manufacturer's warrantee. An insurer would want these papers as part of the submission. The purchase price of the watch reflects its value in the current market.

But when it comes to secondhand watches, it's a wild west scene. Maybe the pre-owned watch came from a pawn shop, a flea market, an online auction, even a website that sells Rolexes though the seller is not an authorized Rolex dealer. The watch's description may not be accurate. The papers received by the original purchaser may be lacking. The appraisal may be boilerplate or it could have been done by an appraiser inexperienced with watches. With such a watch, the insurer—or the careful consumer—faces two important issues: Is the watch a genuine Rolex or a fake? And: What is it worth?


Steamroller crushing counterfeit Rolexes

1. Fake Rolexes

Rolex is the largest luxury watch brand. So, unsurprisingly, it is by far the most counterfeited. One estimate is that the total number of faux Rolex watches produced every year is 10 times the number made in Rolex's facilities. Some are cheap knockoffs, but some are so well done that only a Rolex dealer can recognize them as fake. And Rolex considers a watch counterfeit if it has any non-Rolex parts. 

Even a high purchase price does not guarantee an authentic Rolex. Paying $20,000 for a $50,000 watch may seem like a great deal, but hallmarks can be forged. Authentic visible parts may conceal a movement that was cobbled together. Those diamonds may be CZ, and the gold may actually be gold plate over a cheaper metal.

Such fakery thrives in the new watch market as well as in the secondary market. It's worth noting that Rolex considers any watch not purchased from an authorized dealer to be secondhand, even if it's never been worn. If it comes without official papers from an authorized dealer, how do you know it's genuine? The average gemologist appraiser does not have the expertise to determine whether a luxury watch is genuine in all its parts.

2. Valuation

Determining the value of a pre-owned watch requires a knowledge of the secondary market for vintage watches, and the ability to determine the value of the particular watch in question.  In the past, insurers and insureds looking for valuation on a vintage watch had little recourse beyond the word of the retailer.

One consumer, seeking an appraisal of their vintage Rolex from the company, received the response that "Rolex does not sell or appraise previously owned watches." As the replacement cost of the watch in question, Rolex gave the price of the current model. Unfortunately, this has been common practice.

Replacing old with new works for jewelry but not for watches. Watches are machines, subject to depreciation. A luxury watch has a complex mechanism, and parts wear out. Also, new watches, like new cars, have improvements over last year's model. Other than exceptional collector's items, it's a rare watch—or car—that holds its value or gains in value over the years. Replacing an old watch with a new one means Moral Hazard!

CPO - Certified pre-owned

Under Rolex's CPO program, participating Rolex Jewelers are authorized to buy Rolexes that are at least three years old and then send them to Rolex for certification. Rolex inspects the watch, verifies that it is genuine in all its parts, refurbishes it, and returns it to the retailer. Each such watch is accompanied by a seal (shown at top of this page), a two-year international guarantee card, a service booklet and a guarantee booklet.

The Rolex Jeweler sets the selling price for the watch. CPO Rolexes are likely be higher priced than similar pre-owned models that have not been certified by the company.

Retailers may supply their own certificates for watches they sell.

Some retailers buy and sell pre-owned watches and supply their own certificates authenticating the watches they sell. And some outlets offer no such written assurances of authenticity. It's up to the consumer to judge whether knowing the genuineness of the watch is worth the higher price.

Some smaller luxury brands already have CPO programs, and other large brands are expected to follow Rolex's lead. The CPO program benefits the watch manufacturer by bringing in additional revenue from the growing market in pre-owned watches. People who are looking to purchase high-end watches, especially collectors, are assured that a CPO watch is genuine. And insurers, too, can be assured that the high-end watch is not a counterfeit.

In previous issues of JII we have discussed some of the concerns around insuring a Rolex, the most popular luxury watch. For more detailed discussion of things insurers should think about when considering coverage for a Rolex, see here, here, here, and here.

 

FOR AGENTS & UNDERWRITERS

Even though a luxury watch costs as much as a car, watches have no equivalent to an auto's VIN number, identifying it by model, year, etc. Each part of the watch contributes to its value, and all parts should be separately described on the appraisal.

Any gems on the watch, and the metal of each watch part, should be described in the same detail as for any other piece of gem jewelry. As you can imagine, detailed reporting on a watch encrusted with gems is extremely important to insurers.

The market in counterfeit Rolexes is immense, immensely profitable, and worldwide. Always ask for warrantee papers and a sales receipt, especially for luxury watches that came from a seller other an authorized dealer in the brand.
 
Be mindful of the moral hazard of an excessively high valuation, which can cause the insured to try to come out ahead by "losing" the jewelry.

"Vintage" and "estate" are terms for used watches and other jewelry. They do not signify quality; they just mean the jewelry isn't new.

Secondhand Rolexes can be authenticated at an official Rolex Service Center or by an Authorized Rolex Dealer.

 

FOR ADJUSTERS

The sales receipt is important evidence. If the seller is not an authorized dealer, the watch may be counterfeit.

Seek a replacement for a luxury watch only from an authorized dealer in that brand. Do not be tempted to shop in the huge market that exists for watches with unauthorized, aftermarket add-ons. Such modified watches are not considered genuine.

Watches, like cars (and unlike other jewelry), are machines that suffer wear and tear and do depreciate over time. A 10-year-old Rolex does not have the value of a new Rolex of that model. As with a car, so with a watch—the replacement should take into account the age and condition of the property.

 

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